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Stainless steel studs and brass nuts for my PM Exhaust
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smudger
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Joined: 07 Oct 2007
Posts: 1066
Location: The Wirral; the bit of land between the Mersey and the Dee

PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 8:06 pm    Post subject: Stainless steel studs and brass nuts for my PM Exhaust Reply with quote

Take a look at the picture below...

this is what my PM looks like after I changed to stainless steel studs and brass nuts. As you can see the clearance between the nut and pipe will not allow any socket to fit over it. This is because the Lammy M7 brass nuts used fit an 11mm socket while the standard M7 nuts fit a 10mm socket which works....

I know others have done this but mine is a brand new PM pipe and maybe the exhaust manifold is wider on the newer pipes??? Question

To say it was a nightmare to tighten them with a spanner is an understatement Exclamation Exclamation Exclamation

Any engineers out there have any ideas how to work this??? The only solution I can see is to use non brass M7 nuts that fit a 10mm socket and run the risk of them heat seizing to the pins like the originals did.


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buddyphil
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Joined: 14 May 2007
Posts: 265
Location: page 34 febuary edition of scootering magazine

PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i turned a 11mm socket down in a lathe
works a treat
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jetex
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Joined: 01 Mar 2008
Posts: 485
Location: Liverpool

PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks to me Smudge, that you've got the nuts on upside down. The rounded part should sit on the flange allowing the hexagonal to sit off a bit more. You may then be able to get a socket on ? Whatever you do, don't go back to steel nuts, for the reasons you state.
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Maver
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Joined: 14 May 2007
Posts: 2193
Location: naaaaaarfolk we drive tractors and talk loike PIRATES

PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

buddyphil wrote:
i turned a 11mm socket down in a lathe
works a treat


got a finished OD i can work to pretty please Cool

i'll get some sockets, get them turned down and distributed to the troops Cool

ALSO what washers (if any) should we use in conjunction with the SS studs and brass nuts?
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jetex
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Joined: 01 Mar 2008
Posts: 485
Location: Liverpool

PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depends on how sloppy a fit the stud is in the manifold hole, and how long the stud is. I would go for a flat and spring washer, but if the brass nut has a boss on it and the stud is a pretty close fit, then you would get away without using any washers.
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MikeHolland
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Joined: 26 Jul 2007
Posts: 150
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2008 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also fitted standard nuts and turned down a socket. Works a treat!

Mike
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CheekyThomas
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Joined: 18 May 2007
Posts: 1374

PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not just use the genuine downpipe nuts from piaggio as they are brass now and fit a treat Question
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smudger
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Joined: 07 Oct 2007
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Location: The Wirral; the bit of land between the Mersey and the Dee

PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CheekyThomas wrote:
Why not just use the genuine downpipe nuts from piaggio as they are brass now and fit a treat Question


Sounds like a plan, are they M7 & fit a 10mm socket?? If so how much??
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CheekyThomas
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Joined: 18 May 2007
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes they are M7 and use a 10mm socket... brass locking nuts.
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smudger
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Joined: 07 Oct 2007
Posts: 1066
Location: The Wirral; the bit of land between the Mersey and the Dee

PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CheekyThomas wrote:
Yes they are M7 and use a 10mm socket... brass locking nuts.


Cool thats the answer then... Wink

Do you have part number or can I get them from you??? Very Happy
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GAVSKIN
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Joined: 14 May 2007
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Location: ON THE MIDNIGHT MEAT TRAIN

PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question what do i have on mine then CT? i think i need to check my nuts for tightness after wooly Laughing Laughing Laughing
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martin68
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Joined: 09 Jun 2008
Posts: 91
Location: saltash, cornwall

PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Idea I use a long allen key to tighten my exhaust nuts by using one that fits into the drive of the socket. The thin allen key allows you to get between the engine mounting cradle and tighten the nuts free from obstruction using a spanner to turn it. It works a treat and cuts down on the time the job takes and fustration level. Wink
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rainham boy
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Joined: 20 Oct 2007
Posts: 511
Location: on the road to nowhere

PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i used a cut down spanner to do mine Shocked
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Browney
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Joined: 12 Sep 2008
Posts: 249
Location: Up My Own Arse

PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 5:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rainham boy wrote:
i used a cut down spanner to do mine Shocked


Might need to borrow that in the future Andy Very Happy
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rainham boy
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Joined: 20 Oct 2007
Posts: 511
Location: on the road to nowhere

PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2008 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Browney wrote:
rainham boy wrote:
i used a cut down spanner to do mine Shocked


Might need to borrow that in the future Andy Very Happy


it wont fit yours steve as i have m8 nuts ( Shocked )

i had some studs made one end m7 and other end m8 in stainless so could get any m8 nuts if i had a problem away from home Wink
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