GTS OWNERS CLUB

jetex · Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 10:34 pm Post subject:

Batteries are made up of 6 cells. Each cell is about 2.1 volts, therefore 6 times 2.1 = 12.6 volts, in the real world. But because this is a bit unstable, a battery is just referred to as a 12 volt battery.The ampere hour rating of a battery relates to how long a battery would last if you put a 1 amp drain on it. So a 12 AH battery would let 1 amp drain for 12 hours, and a 14 AH battery would last for 14 hours before it went flat. Therefore, the higher ampere hour rate the better. Your problem sounds like either a knackered battery, or a loose earth lead. Put a multi meter across your battery. It should read just over 12 volts. Press the start button and watch the volt meter, it should'nt drop to less than 9 volts when attempting to crank the engine. Make sure your main positive lead is tight on the battery. Follow it through to the starter motor and make sure it's tight there too. Check the battery to body earth lead is free of paint on the body, and it is tight. Check also the engine to body earth lead. When the engine is running, the alternator puts out 13.7 to 14.3 volts. The will always be a slight variation on these figures.

AlbertTeddyBear · Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 12:03 pm Post subject:

jetex, I have neither the tools or know-how to do your recommended systems check. Also, as the bike has only been mine for a week, I'd prefer to let the warranty remain valid. I understand (I think Rolling Eyes

) what you are suggesting and I will be fully armed and have your suggestion written down, for when I speak to the technician on Monday morning.

I switched the ignition on this morning and scrolled through the digital display to the battery readout, which showed 12.3.

After removing the key, I connected the Optimate charger to the battery at 9:30 this morning and let it do its work until the Green light lit up that tells us that the battery is OK. This took 3 hours before the Green light came on. The Optimate had been slowly charging the battery for 3 hours.

I disconnected the Optimate and put the key in the ignition. I switched the ignition on and scrolled once again to the Battery readout, which showed 12.3 dropping to 12.2

Needless to say the bike wouldn't start either.

So it's a duff battery or poor connection somewhere along the systems. Unless it is something we haven't thought of. Rolling Eyes

Just a thought....would there be any advantage in having a battery with a higher amperage, eg: 12V 16Ah ??

Having looked at battery supplier websites, I have seen that they sell some batteries as having much more power, which make a 'claimed' bigger difference to your vehicles capabilities when using that particular type of battery.
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CheekyThomas · Guvernor Joined: 18 May 2007 Posts: 1374

No the original battery is more than big enough, it doesnt sound battery related to me, the battery would need to be so flat to not do anything when pressing the button, that it would reset the dash and loose all electrics... which it isnt.

As a real simple check.... do the brake lights work from both levers??

AlbertTeddyBear · Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 3:25 pm Post subject:

The brake light works from both levers.

After another 3 hours on Optimate charging, the digital readout is now 12.5
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AlbertTeddyBear · Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 3:48 pm Post subject:

I've even tried to test if it is fitted, by accident, with the pressure test sensor that the MP3 has, that won't let the engine start until you're sitting on the seat!!! How desperate is that??
All lights, horn, readouts, work. Although the clock is losing time on its readout.
I turn the key in the ignition and the red oil light goes out, as the sound of a 'click' is heard from below the tunnel area. I turn the key to 'off' and the red oil light lights up again.
My wife is getting quite annoyed about this 'damn bike and its cost.'
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CheekyThomas · Guvernor Joined: 18 May 2007 Posts: 1374

The click will just be the ignition relay switching on and off...nothing unnormal there.

The oil light coming on when the igntions turned off is though... somethings a miss for sure.

Ring Piaggio assist and get it taken back to the dealers to be fixed. Wink

AlbertTeddyBear · Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 5:57 pm Post subject:

The dealer is expecting my phone call tomorrow at 9.35 and I'm expecting his mechanic/technician to sit down and discuss options. He had to come out last Saturday just after I arrived home from collecting the bike. A blown 15amp fuse for the radiator fan was the problem then.
This bike seems to be jinxed.
I do take heed of your hint about getting Piaggio Assist out to collect the bike.
The oil light remains on while the key is in the 'on' position, and not when the bike is turned off. My mistake for misleading you. The oil light comes on as the key goes to 'on' and then goes off when the button is pressed to start the motor.
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CheekyThomas · Guvernor Joined: 18 May 2007 Posts: 1374

As its free, just get it taken to the dealers by piaggio assist... the sooner they have it, the sooner its fixed and back with you. Wink

AlbertTeddyBear · Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 8:37 pm Post subject:

I wasn't given any literature about Piaggio Assist. I suppose this will arrive in the post in a month or so?
I can ask the dealers to arrange it anyway?
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CheekyThomas · Guvernor Joined: 18 May 2007 Posts: 1374

Dealer cant do it, you will need to... the last number i had for it was...

0870 242 7305 but it might tell you the numbers changed to something else now as im not sure if its the latest one...

Just tell em your name and vehicle reg number and they will come sort the delivery to a dealership of your choice within reasonable mileage limits Wink

AlbertTeddyBear · Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 9:34 pm Post subject:

New number is

0870 7375749

I got the number by phoning Piaggio on 0080081829800

The Chap who gave me a number for Piaggio Assist last night gave me a wrong number. He used to be contracted to Piaggio but isn't anymore. He was somewhere in deepest Eire.
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jetex · Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 12:31 am Post subject:

I definitely think that you have a loose connection somewhere, it's showing all the classic signs. I'm sure that it's only a simple problem which will easily be rectified. When a connection is loose, you switch on your ignition, and all the dash lights come on ( e.g: battery, oil lights etc. ). When you press the start button, they all go out. Switch the ignition off, then back on, and they will all come on again, press the start button and they go out. Each time you press the start button, all you will get is a click. Let the dealer look at it if you're not competent, but you should be back on the road quite quickly, and wondering what all the fuss was about.

AlbertTeddyBear · Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 8:10 am Post subject:

jetex, thanks for the voice of calm. A screwdriver or small spanner will rectify the problem eventually. I have been disappointed at not being able to have a ride up to the Lake District this weekend, which I had promised myself, once I had my new Nexus. It didn't rain this weekend either, and that made my disappointment stronger.

The chief technician is coming out to me later today, bringing a new solenoid. The Nexus solenoid is right by the battery.

As I understand it, if the solenoid is OK and receives insufficient power from the battery it will fail to start the motor. Causes being, low or dead battery, corroded or loose connections in the battery cable, or a damaged positive cable from the battery. My new found knowledge is courtesy of Wikipedia.

In the past whenever I've had a problem with a car or bike, it was invariably caused by a poor connection. I am talking about 20 to 40 years ago though Rolling Eyes

The worst was a Ural Dneiper bike from Prescot Road Bike Sales in Liverpool. In the Islington area near where the Royal Infirmary is now. The bike went through 3 coils in two weeks. When stopped at the traffic lights, the headlight nearly went out! I had to keep revving the engine in order to be seen on my way home from work in the dark. It was built on a pre-war design that the Russians got from the German military. It took at least 20 kicks of the starter to get it going and I still have recurrent pain in my right knee from all those attempts from so long ago! I sold it within 6 months and got a 250 MZ (East German) which never gave me a moments trouble in the 5 years I rode it.
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AlbertTeddyBear · Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 4:05 pm Post subject:

Loose connection!
The earth wire that was 'connected' to the starter motor from the Solenoid, 'wasn't.'
The screw holding it in place was only 'finger loose.' The bike arrived from Italy with seemingly well connected wiring, but after a few bumpy miles, the screw became loose. It's now on very tight!
Full marks to Andy of Turners in Little Sutton. This was the second time he came out to my house to get the bike running.
When it goes in for its first service he's "going to go over it with a fine tooth comb to make sure there's no other problem waiting to appear."
I've checked with Piaggio Assist to be certain the bike is registered in case I have to call them out.

Andy has a question for Cheeky Thomas that I've been asked to pass on.....
do the twin snail horns need a relay, and/or an upgrade of fuse when they are fitted?

I'm also going to have a 12v socket fitted where the Nexus 500 has its fuses beneath the front left pocket. I can then plug any auto accessory into it. eg., GPS. The socket may be sighted inside the front left pocket to keep it out of any rain.

Many thanks for advice and support from you all. It's been another learning curve.
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monty9120 · Posted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 6:20 pm Post subject:

You will need an inline fuse for the fag lighter to stop it killing your loom if there is a problem

you will need a relay for the horns as the amount of current them babies need it will just burn out the horn button
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