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34 miles and no more with a dead new Nexus.
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AlbertTeddyBear
Sargeant


Joined: 18 Feb 2008
Posts: 77
Location: Deva on the Welsh Border

PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 2:38 pm    Post subject: 34 miles and no more with a dead new Nexus. Reply with quote

I collected my new Nexus 250 last Saturday morning. (6th September)
I drove home 12 miles. Parked the bike and went in for a cup of tea. I read the manual to familiarise myself with the Digital Display so that I could set the clock and understand what readings there were and what they meant.
I went out to the bike and put the key in the ignition. Turned the key...........Nothing!
I triple checked that I was doing everything properly and satisfied myself that I wasn't making any mistakes. The bike refused to start. The lights, horn, brake lights worked. The indicators, digital display didn't work, although the digital display did light up, but with no readings displayed on the screen.
I phoned the Dealers and we went through the correct procedure to start the bike........ Nothing.
An hour later, Andy from the dealers came out to look at the bike. He tried the usual methods but to no avail. So then he went through all the fuses and found that the 15amp fuse for the Radiator fan had blown! This also stopped the underseat bulb from lighting up. He replaced the fuse and we started the engine and let it run until the fan kicked in. Once the fan had kicked in a couple of times we parted happily, after a cup of tea.
This afternoon I got kitted up to go out for a ride.
Turned the key and...........Nothing!!!
The lights, horn, indicators, brake lights, underseat light, digital display etc all worked.
The bike refused to start. There is a slight "click" as I press the starter button. Once again I triple checked that I was doing everything correctly.
Having watched Andy go through the fuse boxes last weekend, I had asked him to leave a collection of fuses with me. I then went through every fuse in the two underseat fuse holders and every fuse had NOT blown. I even replaced the problem fuse from last weekend with another 15 amp just in case, but all the electrics are working as they should.....except the fr**in bike!!!
I phoned the dealers and told them what isn't happening.
The chap who came out to me last weekend is away on holiday. The mechanic who would take over was shunted this morning at traffic lights by a woman in a Fiesta and has a wrecked scooter and a broken leg!!

What could be the problem?
I have tried the master key but that renders the same problem. The bike won't start.
The "click" seems to signify that the solenoid and power are getting through the system, but am I looking at an immobiliser problem?
I have said to the the dealer that the prospect of getting my money back and returning this particular bike are becoming real considerations. I dread going off into the wide blue yonder, stopping for petrol and then having to wait for ages for the RAC to turn up and bring me home, because the bike won't start again. My confidence in this machine is waning.
Any advice will be much appreciated.
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AlbertTeddyBear
Sargeant


Joined: 18 Feb 2008
Posts: 77
Location: Deva on the Welsh Border

PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When the ignition is switched on, the flashing immobiliser warning light goes out. Therefore, it would seem that it is not the immobiliser that is the problem. It looks more like a solenoid/starter motor problem.
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CheekyThomas
Guvernor


Joined: 18 May 2007
Posts: 1374

PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try flicking the kill switch a few times and moving the side stand up and down... as they are the most common issues.

It doesnt sound like an immobilizer issue, it would still turn over but just not start, which is why the kill switch or side stand are likely culprits...
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AlbertTeddyBear
Sargeant


Joined: 18 Feb 2008
Posts: 77
Location: Deva on the Welsh Border

PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the 15amp fuse blowing last Saturday for no apparent reason, I'm beginning to think that there is a particular loose connection somewhere in the system.
I looked at the sidestand switch last Saturday and the sidestand did not impede the spring loaded switch. Having said that, I'll get me to me garage now and play wiv me switches by candle light for a few minutes. The sidestand switch was my first port of call this afternoon.
I suppose a poor connection in the killswitch mechanism could account for a continuing problem?
I'll do me best. Thanks.
Bye the way I read the piece about the cable to the cdi, being a problem a couple of weeks ago and wondered if that could be the culprit?
Back in a few minutes......
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CheekyThomas
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Joined: 18 May 2007
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The immobilizer doesnt kill the starter though, it kills the CDi and fuel pump operation... it would just turn over and over but do nothing.
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Blackpool Paul
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Joined: 28 May 2007
Posts: 531
Location: Blackpool

PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Torch it, and get a GTS 300 with the insurance money, no, I know the feeling when your new pride n joy lets you down, my GTS 250 had some electrical probs last year, all sorted now fortunately, get it back to the supplyer and do some ranting whilst your there? Sad
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AlbertTeddyBear
Sargeant


Joined: 18 Feb 2008
Posts: 77
Location: Deva on the Welsh Border

PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've made sure the sidestand switch is fully extended and not unduly recessed after the sidestand is raised up. I pulled the 'brass' nipple fully to make sure it wasn't stuck in its recessed position. I toggled the killswitch several times and even pressed down hard on that switch when attempting to start the bike. All to no avail though.
There is something that is not making a good connection somewhere.
If I remove the Gilera badge and the two screws holding the nosecone in place, will that allow me access to the CDI cable connection? Or would I have to remove the two headlight housings too? Or leave it all to the shop who sold it to me? (Best option!! )
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darklord
Inspector


Joined: 12 Aug 2008
Posts: 132
Location: hayling island

PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Confused This may sound daft but the battery may be down a bit after all the the mucking around, it has only done a few miles and perhaps was not fully charged by the dealer?
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AlbertTeddyBear
Sargeant


Joined: 18 Feb 2008
Posts: 77
Location: Deva on the Welsh Border

PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Darklord, a good point to mention.
I've been out to the bike this morning to see if the 'little people' paid a visit last night and sprinkled fairy dust on the bike (Well, it is red!!) The bike still 'clicks' when the starter button is pressed. All lights etc., continue to operate.
I scrolled through to the battery read out, which shows 12.00. I connected my Optimate III to the permanent fused lead on Thursday and after half an hour the battery was judged to be fully charged and in fine fettle.
After the Optimate session, I started the bike first time and had a fiddle with the digital display to get used to the various pieces of information that it gives.
So the battery is OK, along with everything else and the bike was firing perfectly on Thursday.
For some reason I've got the bike on handlebar lock, AND chained to me ground anchor!! Any thief who can get the engine started will get a free cup of coffee from me. (Just before the police arrive Wink )
I've spoken to the garage/showroom this morning, and the prominent viewpoint is solenoid, starter motor breakdown.
They cannot get to me today because they're short of staff. One on holiday, one with a sick baby, and the lad who was crunched off his bike yesterday has turned up on crutches to help out. He hasn't broken his leg, which they thought was the initial problem, but he does have bad ligament damage. I know from personal experience that ligament damage takes a hell of a lot longer to heal than a broken bone.
It turns out that he was on his bike coming to work yesterday morning at just after 9:00. He had passed a Ford Fiesta and as he approached a set of lights, they were ALREADY on Red. He stopped. The driver of the Fiesta didn't. She drove straight through the lights and HIM!!
She was taken away by the police. She is 73 years old, and was pissed out of her head. (At 9:20 in the morning!!)
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monty9120
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Joined: 15 Nov 2007
Posts: 861
Location: North London

PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

when mine wouldnt make a connection from the aerial to the cdi. the imobilisor light was on all the time

if its clicking. i would say relay, have a look in the manual see where it is. and check that its all connected right
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AlbertTeddyBear
Sargeant


Joined: 18 Feb 2008
Posts: 77
Location: Deva on the Welsh Border

PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The immobiliser light goes out as it's supposed to do.

One thing I noticed is that the ignition barrel is quite loose in its housing. As if a screwed back plate wasn't holding the barrel firmly in place in its hole from behind the plastic cover.

Like a 12v socket that needs to be held in place from behind its position in a dashboard, by means of a circular threaded ring. Confused Sad

The manual doesn't even mention 'relay.' Unless I'm looking in the wrong place. Embarassed
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AlbertTeddyBear
Sargeant


Joined: 18 Feb 2008
Posts: 77
Location: Deva on the Welsh Border

PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I put the Optimate on again, about two hours ago and it is still trickle charging. In the past, each of my previous bikes had their batteries charged and full after only an hour at the most.
So, is there a loss of juice somewhere that is rendering power to the starter inadequate?
On a brighter note, I've found a place to connect a 12v socket with a live feed, for a future GPS. The Nexus 250 doesn't have its fuses under the left side dashboard pocket. There is a cover there that hides where the 500's Fuses are fitted. Behind that cover I can see a white connection block and white wires, that could possibly be a feed for hard wiring a GPS into. Or simply wire in a 12v socket (from Maplins for £3) and use that 12v socket for whatever might be useful. As long as it has a waterproof cap of course. Rolling Eyes
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AlbertTeddyBear
Sargeant


Joined: 18 Feb 2008
Posts: 77
Location: Deva on the Welsh Border

PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

darklord wrote:
Confused This may sound daft but the battery may be down a bit after all the the mucking around, it has only done a few miles and perhaps was not fully charged by the dealer?


I'm beginning to wonder if the new battery is a dud. I know sod all about the electrical universe and wouldn't know how to check if the battery is a bad one.
When I collected the bike and it was 'eventually' deemed OK to ride, the digital readout for the battery was between 14.6 and 14.0. It maintained those levels for the 25 miles I rode it. Please note.........the 25 miles!!!!!
Having checked back with the battery this morning, the readout was down to 12.0
After 2 hours on the Optimate, the readout has crept up to 12.6
This is very slow compared to each of my previous bikes' batteries.
I had a Virago and an X9500 next to each other at one time and swapped the Optimate from one to the other on a weekly basis. Each was quickly charged up and I had a choice of bike to go out on, without fear of a flat battery. The Virago was 12 years old and used the old style 'top-up with distilled water' system. It never gave me any trouble.
I see that the Nexus 250 battery is sealed for life. The Optimate connections that are attached to it are solidly connected.
A chap from Bill Smith's in Chester has just been on the phone chatting about other bikes, and he thinks that the Nexus battery might be the root cause of my problem.
I waited quite a while to have the Nexus delivered and now that I've had it for a week, I'm becoming a bit disillusioned. Rolling Eyes
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darklord
Inspector


Joined: 12 Aug 2008
Posts: 132
Location: hayling island

PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Confused I still think the battery is suspect. 12 volts is a very low reading for a new battery and certainly would not have the power to start the bike.
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AlbertTeddyBear
Sargeant


Joined: 18 Feb 2008
Posts: 77
Location: Deva on the Welsh Border

PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a puzzle....
The battery on the bike is a YTX 14 -BS
The owners manual states that the battery in the bike has the following characteristics 12V-14Ah
When I go to various websites to look at the battery, they show the YTX 14 - BS as 12V-12Ah.
So, does this make a difference? 14Ah or 12Ah ?
Is the battery that is fitted, fit for purpose?

Westco do it with 14Ah
Varta do it with 12Ah.
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