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Maver
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Joined: 14 May 2007
Posts: 2193
Location: naaaaaarfolk we drive tractors and talk loike PIRATES
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 Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2008 9:31 pm Post subject: Mav's burnout |
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used some in-line crimp connectors and 3mm 27amp cable and shrink sleeve to repair the damage.
rectifier seems fine and i really do think the battery is ok too, fingers crossed and i've got away lightly 
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smudger
Guvernor
Joined: 07 Oct 2007
Posts: 1066
Location: The Wirral; the bit of land between the Mersey and the Dee
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 12:15 am Post subject: |
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Good news mate
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ChevySoul
Inspector
Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Posts: 487
Location: Black Country
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 1:01 am Post subject: |
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Lucky 
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CheekyThomas
Guvernor
Joined: 18 May 2007
Posts: 1374
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 6:30 am Post subject: |
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Brown connector death 
Common problem on regulators, seem some right nastys.... saying that yours looks fairly bad... glad the rectifier is ok, thought it would be... watch the battery though, they never like being fully discharged. |
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4tdrag
Inspector
Joined: 06 Dec 2007
Posts: 181
Location: worcester
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 8:32 am Post subject: |
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| great news rich ,it looked expensive at the time |
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Innocenti
Big Cheese
Joined: 14 May 2007
Posts: 1205
Location: Surrey Village
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 9:02 am Post subject: |
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 should i be checking my mp3 one as well ???????? is it same place ?
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Maver
Site Admin
Joined: 14 May 2007
Posts: 2193
Location: naaaaaarfolk we drive tractors and talk loike PIRATES
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 9:14 am Post subject: |
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i really wanted to do twist and solder joints and not have crimps but it seems one side of the wiring is plain copper wire and the other side is nickel coated wire and wouldn't heat enough to take the solder even with a industrial digital temp controlled iron running at 420deg and rosin to coat the wires at which point the insulation nearby started to suffer so no-go 
don't think the battery did fully discharge.....
still had lights dash etc just not enough umph to initiate engine start......
when i tested it last night after jumping off the car etc with scooter stopped and slave battery disconnected it still had 11.5v.
we'll see, fingers crossed 
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rainham boy
Guvernor
Joined: 20 Oct 2007
Posts: 511
Location: on the road to nowhere
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 10:51 am Post subject: |
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good news rich , hope the battery is ok
looked worse than it seems
checked mine and it looks ok and no corrosion on the contacts/connectors
whats best thing to protect them with
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flipspeed
Inspector
Joined: 28 May 2007
Posts: 281
Location: saxmundham,suffolk,uk..
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 11:17 am Post subject: |
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checked mine too, and they where already caked in grease!!
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CheekyThomas
Guvernor
Joined: 18 May 2007
Posts: 1374
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 11:26 am Post subject: |
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Silicone electrical grease to be exact....  |
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smirnoff
Site Admin
Joined: 14 May 2007
Posts: 1125
Location: On the bouncy castle in my head.
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 11:47 am Post subject: |
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Think eveyone should keep their eye on this conector, it does seem to be a recurring problem especially on the older gts. I used the standard 20amp choccy block and wire on mine and plenty of isulting tape. Did the trick no problems since. And while we're on things to keep an eye on, the original plug cap wears, doesn't grip the plug thread and falls off. Seen it three times now on different scoots, so a spare plug cap under the seat would be a sound investment.
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Maver
Site Admin
Joined: 14 May 2007
Posts: 2193
Location: naaaaaarfolk we drive tractors and talk loike PIRATES
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 2:49 pm Post subject: |
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well if a 20amp choc block connector is doing the job then my cable & crimps should be fine
i had our electrical inspection guy at work look at a section of the cable, he measured & counted the strands and worked it out to be 3mm which is 27amp so i based everything on that.
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CheekyThomas
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Joined: 18 May 2007
Posts: 1374
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 5:42 pm Post subject: |
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Any problems i normally get i normally just solder them together without the connector as its not needed... theres another of the same connector under the front panel as well, theyve used a extension loom running the length of the vehicle...
Both repairs will do fine.
[img]http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=80896&stc=1&d=1206872007[/img]
[img]http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=38171&stc=1&d=1136964988[/img]
[img]http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=77404&stc=1&d=1201743515[/img]
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Maver
Site Admin
Joined: 14 May 2007
Posts: 2193
Location: naaaaaarfolk we drive tractors and talk loike PIRATES
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 5:54 pm Post subject: |
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| CheekyThomas wrote: | | Any problems i normally get i normally just solder them together without the connector as its not needed... |
| Maver wrote: | | i really wanted to do twist and solder joints and not have crimps but it seems one side of the wiring is plain copper wire and the other side is nickel coated wire and wouldn't heat enough to take the solder even with a industrial digital temp controlled iron running at 420deg and rosin to coat the wires at which point the insulation nearby started to suffer so no-go |
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smirnoff
Site Admin
Joined: 14 May 2007
Posts: 1125
Location: On the bouncy castle in my head.
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| Posted: Sat Sep 20, 2008 6:45 pm Post subject: |
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| Maver wrote: | well if a 20amp choc block connector is doing the job then my cable & crimps should be fine
i had our electrical inspection guy at work look at a section of the cable, he measured & counted the strands and worked it out to be 3mm which is 27amp so i based everything on that. |
Bodging electricals is what I do for a job....I'm profesional
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